CREATE 5 SECTIONS: A triangle fringe, a triangular crown section with a V-parting below it (parietal to occipital), and triangular sections behind each parietal ridge extending to the apex.
STEP 1: Starting in the back V-section, take ¼-inch diagonal back slices. Backcomb from the center and apply Formula 1. Repeat on both sides of the V.
STEP 2: Continue up the section, alternating between weaving and slicing along the V-parting. Mist with Royal Treatment Bond & Seal as you work.
STEP 3: Move to the crown triangle. Take ½-inch horizontal subsections. Backcomb, weave, and apply Formula 2.
Color Design
STEP 4: For the fringe, take 3 back-to-back 1/8-inch horizontal slices.
STEP 5: After the initial slices, switch to medium weaves with larger subsections. Backcomb every section.
STEP 6: Apply Formula 3 to the roots outside your foiled sections.
STEP 7: Apply Formula 4 to the mids & ends of the remaining hair on the sides (hair not in foils), melting it into the root color.
STEP 8: Apply Formula 3 to all hair remaining between foils.
PROCESS: 30 minutes.
FINISH: Rince with lukewarm water (3-5 minutes).
TONE: Rough dry the hair. Apply Formula 5 to the blonde sections.
STEP 4: Taking horizontal ¼ of an inch subsections apply in this sequence, Formula 8, Formula 4, Formula 5, Formula 3, Formula 7, taking medium weaves. Follow the same sequence for the back and sides.
STEP 5: For the fringe, leave 1/8th of an inch of blonde out. After, start taking ¼ of an inch horizontal weaves, following this sequence: Formula 8, Formula 3, Formula 7, Formula 4.
STEP 6: Apply Formula 8 to the roots melting it to the exposed ends.
PROCESS: 20 minutes.
THE HAIRCUT
STEP 1: Clip section from behind the ear on both sides. STEP 2: Create a diamond parting on the crown and clip away. STEP 3: Comb diamond parting straight up to 180 degrees, twist the hair twice, cut in an upward angle with texturizing shears, backcombing towards the root. STEP 4: With the head tilted forward, take pinch partings at a 45-degree elevation and texturize the hair above the hand. Do this in the nape area. STEP 5: Take fringe section from the apex to the temples, leave out shorter pieces in the front. STEP 6: Comb to 180 degrees, twist twice, backcomb and slide cut with texturizing shears. STEP 7: For the fringe that was left out, overdirect back, open and close texturizing shears. STEP 8: To finish, take pinch partings all around, elevate to 90 degrees and texturize above the hand to remove bulk.
PREP AND SECTIONING Section the front down the middle. In the back, create a V-shaped parting.
STEP 1: Prep for Wet Balayage Generously mist the hair with Royal Treatment Bond & Seal. The hair should be damp to facilitate a smooth wet balayage application.
STEP 2: Set the Perimeter Starting in the back left along the V-parting, take two sections along the hairline. Freehand paint using Formula 1, feathering the application starting ½ an inch away from the scalp.
STEP 3: Back Application Continue following the V-parting using diagonal back subsections. Tease selected sections before painting to ensure a seamless blend.
STEP 4: Front Application Move to the front. Take horizontal sections that follow the natural round of the head. Alternate between weaving and freehand painting.
STEP 5: Global Color Apply Formula 2 from roots to ends over the entire head.
PROCESS: Until the desired level is achieved (max 45 minutes).
STEP 1: Perimeter and Sides Take a section following the round of the head from behind the ear. Overdirect this section entirely to the opposite side and straight cut. Repeat this step for the other side.
STEP 2: Connecting the Back Part the back down the middle. Take a triangle section, overdirect it to the front, and straight cut to connect the lengths.
STEP 3: Fringe Create a U-shaped parting for the fringe. Twist the hair, elevate to 180 degrees, and point cut to soften the edges.
Formula 5 (Violet): 1oz CHI Ionic Permanent 6V + 4g Violet Additive + 1oz 20 Volume Developer
Color Technique (Pre-Lightening)
STEP 1: Prep and Sectioning Part hair down the middle and section into three parts (leaving one out). Mist hair with Royal Treatment Bond & Seal.
STEP 2: Virgin Application (Mids) Starting in the back left, take 1-inch subsections. Apply Formula 1 generously to the mid-shafts and ends, avoiding the roots.
STEP 3: Once mids and ends are fully saturated, apply Formula 1 1/2 inch away from roots at the fringe area, using free hand painting technique.
STEP 4: Base Application Create a U-shaped section from temples to occipital. Clip the top away. Apply Formula 2 from roots to ends on the hair underneath. Isolate with foils.
STEP 5: Top Section Mids Release the top section. Avoiding the money piece, apply Formula 3 starting one inch down from the base.
STEP 6: Ends and Detail Taking diagonal back subsections, apply to the lengths alternating between Formula 4 and Formula 5. Use Formula 4 specifically for the money piece.
STEP 1: Fringe Sectioning Section the fringe from the round of the head to the corner of the brow. Clip away the sides behind the ears. STEP 2: Crown Prep Create and clip a triangle section at the crown. STEP 3: Crown Texture Elevate the crown section to 180 degrees. Twist and scissor cut using a backcombing motion. STEP 4: Vertical Lengths Part into 3 vertical sections. Elevate to 180 degrees and slide cut diagonally up (above the hand). STEP 5: Fringe Length Overdirect the fringe, twist, and cut in a backcombing motion away from the face. STEP 6: Fringe Detail Comb fringe down. Take a small V-section, twist, and point cut to soften the edge. STEP 7: Top Blending Take horizontal sections at the top. Slide cut from the back, angling upwards to blend the lengths. STEP 8: Side Texturizing Take horizontal sections on the sides. Overdirect, weave with texturizing shears, and backcomb cut to remove weight. STEP 9: Face Frame Blend Part from the apex to above the brow. Slide cut to blend the face frame into the lengths. STEP 10: Crosscheck Take a horizontal section at the apex, elevate to 180 degrees, and point cut to blend. Repeat throughout the round of the head.
STEP 1: Prep and section the hair into 4 quadrants.
STEP 2: Nape Starting at the nape, take 1/8-inch diagonal back slices. Place 2 back-to-back foils on each side of the hairline using Formula 1. Saturate generously.
STEP 3: Crown Texture Move to the crown. Take 1/8-inch medium weave sections. Tease the hair twice at the root before applying Formula 1. Repeat for the entire crown area.
STEP 4: Fringe For the bangs/fringe area, apply Formula 1 in back-to-back 1/8-inch woven foils.
STEP 5: Side Structure On the sides, create horizontal 1/8-inch woven subsections, using weaving and teasing technique using Formula 1.
PROCESS: until the desired level is achieved (max 50 minutes).
STEP 6: Face Frame Application Isolate your face-framing section. Apply Formula 2, using foils to keep these sections separated from the rest of the hair.
STEP 7: Prep and Protect Mist the remaining damp hair with Royal Treatment Bond & Seal to prepare for the gloss.
STEP 8: Global Gloss Apply Formula 3 to the remainder of the hair, ensuring even coverage from roots to ends.
